Klipper bulging corners reddit Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home Open navigation Go to Reddit Home Master Klipper pressure advance by tuning smooth time and other important factors. The main issue I’m looking to solve is bulging corners during “high speed” 90mm/s printing. for the bulging corners: linear advance ( marlin ) / pressure advance ( klipper ) for reducing ringing: resonance A rather boring pressure advance test cube. 4mm wall set my e step calibration someone I've had pressure advance and retraction tuned in, so the bulging corners might be related to jerk. s. Everything looks good, except for these corners that bulge about 0. Just a reminder that you will never get 'sharp' corners, they will always be rounded somewhat. Remove those rounded corners from your 3D prints today! Reddit; WhatsApp; Klipper’s Pressure Advance feature solves several problems that affect your print quality at high speeds. I made a stress cube with features on a 20mm face to test ghosting and a clean 10mm face to check my corners. It is the equivalent of the pressure advance setting on klipper, and I guess the theory behind it is the same (strategically adjust the flow The corners on the fast parts of the print, and the ends of the infill lines will disappear, or at least appear very under extruded. Folks, I'm having difficulty with the square corner velocity setting. To be fair its probably worth mentioning to OP that it is possible to use klipper on the 3 pro but that this would require a separate klipper host. It's a terrible picture, but shows the progression of an awful corner, to a bulging corner, to a good corner, to a deteriorating corner. The bulging corners look like a linear advance issue, but I have never tuned it on a marlin machine. Bulging corners, excessive stringing, and inaccurate dimensions are the most This is a common issue with 3D printers. This can lead to stringing blobs and bulging print corners and decrease print accuracy. popular-all-random-users | AskReddit-pics-funny-movies-gaming-worldnews-news-todayilearned-nottheonion-explainlikeimfive Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 2 comments /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. Hmm, that's not a great solution, as it leads to instantaneous changes in direction in corners, rounded corners, and ringing. co/yQ7s8q3. And it’s a lot slower for me printing with LA because of extruder jerk settings. 3. Here I have the kobra max and I have the same issue. If Linear Advance can diminish ghosting and prevent my corners from bulging at those speeds, it will significantly cut down my print times. Hello, I've really been enjoying klipper but am trying to narrow down a strange extrusion issue that I wasn't seeing in Marlin. Corners that are part of a continuous path of extrusion, even sharp corners, are unaffected. Even just adding 10c to the nozzle and increasing the speed by 30 would would have a noticable difference. The tower method while being slower (although as others have mentioned, can be sped up by using just 1 or 2 perimeters and not infill or top layers) makes it very clear, where the bulging fades out and where corner start to break apart. I'm running Klipper, Fluidd, and solid steel bed spacers instead of springs on my e3v2. I have a PEI bed and have had great success with klipper, but have had to turn this value all the way down to 1 mm/s to get bed adhesion. Retraction: 0. x firmware. I didn’t get the question. Btw is it the bulging corners that in relation makes this kind of marks looks like under extrusion? Or is it an actual under extrusion just before the corner? Looked in to klipper as well but doesn't seem that easy due to their locked up config. Pressure advance is the way and the only way I know of getting it on an Ender 3 is with Klipper Firmware or something similar. Pressure Advance is to reduce bulging on corners or other situations where the printhead slows down whoch might cause extra filament to be pushed out causing inaccurate prints. The odd thing is that it does do the retractions on infil and top and bottom layers, it's just the perimeter that's causing an issue. Reply reply Dammit, i've had a thinko first principles, definition of square corner velocity in the kipper kinematics docs, definition of marlin jerk. I have reduced flow to 70% for bottom/top layers and no change. This is with a Spider V1 The purpose of the tuning cube is to find where too much PA causes what looks like under extrusion; you're not trying to get a perfect cube but rather looking for the point where the corners look "the best" (not bulging out below or thinning out above). 1 Corners peeled because I didn’t clean my bed but finally got rid of any bulging layer lines. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Bulge on the Letters not fixed. I’ve messed with jerk and acceleration, and speed quite a bit. if you have problems with bulging corners it helps a lot and it also reduces the needed retraction amount. I’d prefer to keep the printer a standalone device and not have it connected to a computer to run. After calibrating Klipper pressure advance and using the accelerometer for input shaper these are completely gone. I have a CR6-SE with BTT SKR CR6 board, using a RPI 4 running Klipper. The layers with the letters are being printed slower due to multiple cornering, so they have a higher layer time. 13 votes, 14 comments. I am printing at twice that with slightly less accel (2k) and only get bulging on very sharp corners or small models (. i just did a print that would have taken 9 hours in 3 1/2 hours and it looks just as good with no bulging corners and a smaller z seam. Having this set just right gets more and more important the more you crank the acceleration up. MZV has less of pre-corner bulge but more ringing, while EI2 has a little more pre-corner bulge than MZV but still less than ZVD while reducing ringing and having a lower post-corner depression. I find it hard to narrow down the best corners. Still in warranty. Linear Advance seeks to correct that by more precisely modulating extrusion and movement speed to mitigate this, leading to less visible seams, less bulging corners and smoother prints. As you can see, I get very clean and stable results all places but exterior corners. I shouldve had 10mm widths, these are my results. . i thought maybe its acceleration related but this is on the very slow first layer so surely it shouldnt be seen here? /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. Only time I slow it down is if the filament refuses to melt correctly (I've got some grey that will underextrude even at 235 unless I slow the printer down) I did this to fix my bulging corners! What slicer setting effects the "corner bulges" All other dims are accurate within . Again best set with some custom gcode. Old Printer? Cheap Printer? New Printer? Bad Prints? Great Prints? Klipper can help you and your machine produce beautiful prints at a fraction of the time. PA will often improve quality even at slow speeds so I would for sure tune in some PA. Now I use pressure advance tuning in combination with acceleration tuning to have much nicer, Ender 3 v2 with dual z, klipper, and bmg 2. Helps reduce stringing on travel moves without needing as much retraction, but doesn't really do anything for corner bulge. 11 mm is Simplify3D's corners are better than Cura's but not as good as SS. What am I doing wrong? I have my default speed set to 200mms, my layer height to 0. hi have a ender 5 plus for about 1 month having issues with printing sharp corner ive done all calibration retraction tower with filament using is 8. I am trying to understand if it's relatively normal depending on what slicer you are using you might have the option to slow down at the corners to make them more accurate, it could be called "corner acceleration", "edge acceleration", or maybe even something like fast vs accurate print Why are my corners bulging upwards at higher speeds? Ive recently moved over to orca slicer instead of creality print. This is unsurprising since you have a direct drive system which will limit these artifacts. edit subscriptions. org Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. I'm sure having a direct drive helps since i always fall between 0. you do have to have something in the start gcode. reddit's community for DIY Pedal Builders! Members Online. On creality print i printed the same model with the same speed, accels, flow, temps, layer height, layer width, z-offset, Prior to enabling linear advance the walls would kind of "sweep" into the corner and form a kind of gradual bulge now the walls are sharper and I end up with a subtle "sharp" bulge at the corner. Definitely look into this if you update to the Community Firmware, it will be night and day difference to your overall print quality. Klipper runs far better and the pressure advanced tuning is awesome for getting rid of bulging corners. edit : ender 3 v2, with biqu h2 DD edit 2: also i upgraded to the biqu h2 DD after installing klipper because my dual gear metal bowden sounded like it couldnt keep up for how fast the printer wanted to print now Fyi you will always have a small amount of bulging unless you upgrade your board to take advantage of linear advance or install Klipper for pressure advance. Yes, less ringing (input shaper), minimised corner bulging (pressure advance that actually works on a Creality board) and no stuttering on complex curves. What that really means is Klipper is over-extruding as it So i just finished installing Klipper on my e3v2 and this is the second print, the corners are bulging and idk what to do, not sure if i have to Why are my corners bulging upwards at higher speeds? Ive recently moved over to orca slicer instead of creality print. With input shaper tuning I was able to print 75-100mm/s with pretty decent quality, which is about twice as fast as the stock setup would do. Nowhere else has any signs of overextrusion though, and i double-checked the extruder calibration, came out spot-on according to my calipers. 1 on all axes, beating in mind that the stock gantry will speed up towards the extents of travel (due to non-parallel belt pathing) which will skew the print towards the extremes of the travel. I used CaliLantern to tune skew and shrinkage and I get +/-0. Open comment sort options I regularly print at 120mm/s with the klipper FW on the ender 3. and it’s not about speed but about getting the cleanest corners possible. My E3 couldn't do good corners at 70 mm / sec with Marlin 1. 205K subscribers in the ender3 community. Anyone have any tips on what settings I may need to change to correct this? Reply reply 132K subscribers in the FixMyPrint community. The filament is ESUN Black PETG and I use Cura 5. Gets me a reliable 97mm/s (stock extruder) at 4500mm/s/s acceleration with no bulging corners or ghosting. All 4 corners are the same, it's just that on one side of the corner i have no bulging at a different height than the other side. 80mm/s, 1500accel, ender3 You should also be able to get rid of the terribly bulging corners by using Klipper's equivalent of linear Bulging corners is the third part of this, that's linear advance (M900) set in the custom gcode section of the filamnt profiles, it's pressure advance on klipper and the values are a bit different. The trick to this I worked out was pretty simple. I therefore think your corners are either bulging due to chosen speed/Accel being too high for your kinematics or due to insufficient part cooling for the shorter layer time leaving the filament cooling down too slow. I remember i solved this before years ago when i first was using my ender 3. Please be aware that LinAdv on TMC steppers requires a newer Marlin release, as it's broken in the LTS. Make note of the accelerations you're currently using, and don't dive straight in by adding a zero to than number in klipper. It also illustrates deterioration in the middle of the dual-speed section. 25K subscribers in the 3dprinter community. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. Result: https://ibb. It seems to be over extruding on the corners (e steps calibrated perfectly) like it is lingering on corners, so I tried doubling jerk. View community ranking In the Top 10% of largest communities on Reddit. So you can try to increase the Square Corner Velocity instead. If the cube looks a lot better but the corners are still a bit rounded or bulging don't sweat it, that's what pressure advance / linear advance and flow rate calibrations are all about. Then I moved to setting the pressure (linear) advance and it doesn't seem to do anything - no matter the settings the effect is always the same, at least to my eye. Printed a calibration cube on my Ender 3 v2 Neo with Capricorn tube. I've adjusted the outer wall speed to print slower but it still bulges. It’s easy to dial in on a direct drive machine but IMO a waste of time on a Bowden, I get sharper corners but a bunch of other trade offs. the z-seam. Reply reply ZeligD • I’d just done my Pressure Advance :( 0. /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. The walls are accurate thickness Obligatory Klipper pressure advance plug, since I don't see one. Running a longer test print now to see how it holds up. This fork o klipper has all the funcionalities from main klipper ( actually from 0xD34D fork ) plus support for the original printers display. For the OP, I don't see bulging corners which would need preassure/linear advance. It's a big commitment but I can definitely say I get way cleaner prints and at 2x the speed using pressure advance and input shaping turned on (compensating for ghosting at high speed). Just with some ringing and maybe some bulging corners. Hard to tell if it's just the lighting perhaps, but it looks to me like you've got bulging corners from the bottom to around 80% of the way up, then nice "square" corners for a short bit, then they start to fall apart above that. Even at Extrusion Multiplayer 0. For my bedslinger, 3. 2. And that creates bulging edges. Klipper can help you and your machine produce beautiful prints at a fraction of the time. This defect looked like it was under extruding after sharp corners, and then it would normalize. 0 extruder. Getting nasty bulging corners off of my ender 3 S1, and can't seem to find a good tutorial on hot to calibrate Pressure advance, Can anyone please share their profile for ender 3 S1 ( orca slicer) Link to a tutorial? View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. The goal is to eliminate the bulge. Other than the lip (which appears on corner features on similar parts of other prints), I’m quite happy with the results I’m getting. The ESP32 series employs either a Tensilica Xtensa LX6, Xtensa LX7 or a RiscV processor, and both dual-core and single-core variations are available. On ender3 v3 se, klipper using orca slicer. ramping up the printing speeds for infill and internal perimeters (infill 100mm/s, internal perimeters 60mm/s) Turning jerk up to 20mm/s and and printing external perimeters at the same speed as jerk. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Calibration cube is a flawed test, and things like elephants foot and bulging corners can affect measurements. 6. It doesn’t have anything to do with that project tho. Or check it out in the app stores This was the main reason I switched to klipper. Similarly, as the print head comes to a corner, the extruder doesn't reduce the pressure as fast as the nozzle decelerates, causing slight overextrusion; similarly you can get underextrusion as the pressure takes a moment to rise when the nozzle accelerates out of a corner. Linear advance ( marlin ) / Pressure advance ( klipper ) but to use it, your firmware needs to support it ( needs to be activated while compiling marlin ) Pressure builds up at the tool head slows down around corners, so there’s always a little bulge if it’s not tuned Hi All, I'm just getting my printer to work. here is mine for my ender 5+ with klipper: M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; start preheating the bed G28 ; home M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; heat to Cura Bed setting M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}; heat to Cura Hotend ;*** End Preheating *** ;M420 S1 Klipper can help you and your machine produce beautiful prints at a fraction of the time. I could get rid of one but at the cost of the other. Fast 3d printers vs quality prints . On creality print i printed the same model with the same speed, accels, flow, temps, layer height, layer width, z-offset, /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. 😁 Calibration Cubes On my delta, ZVD dampens ringing the most, but at the cost of a bulge pre-corner and depression post-corner before settling back to a straight line. A bed mesh on any printer that uses a sheet metal bed showing a total variation of 0. So like, I come from an engineering background and took control systems courses (more emphasis on closed-loop controls), and I do /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. The corners of my prints have excess material, and I don't know how to fix it! With a calibration cube I get perfect 20mm dimensions measured at the middle, but 20. If i then divide the value by 3, the faster sections will be fine again, but on the slower sections, the effect of pressure advance would be too low (bulging on corners, over extrusion on infill line endings) Notice is on square corners also sunk in on the outside and bulging on the inside. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. You can try to use an extrusion width of slightly smaller than the nozzle to get tighter corners. 4mm hardened steel nozzle Amazon choice petg filament I see the bulging corners on the My understanding of Linear Advance is that its firmware and certain hardware used to eliminate (or nearly eliminate) bulging around corners, like you can commonly see when printing 90 degree corners. Bulging corners on prints Troubleshooting I've printed a calibration cube and my printer (Ender 3 V3 SE) keeps bulding the corners. It seems the latest fad seems to be super fast printing, Flsun super racer, Flsun 400, Creality ender 7 as examples. Otherwise drop your print speed to 45 and see how it goes. The seam was bulging then too Reply I usually do a temp tower,then flow test, then pressure advance i change without doing tests, rather i look at corners and walls to see it they bulging or too thin in a calibration cube. That’s why K1 Max introduces the Pressure Advance. Might try the same K value with default 500 acceleration values after it finishes. Thanks Reddit! Image Share Add a Comment. 6+mm dimensions at the corners. corner bulging on calibration cube, please help. If you don't know about it, pressure advance on Klipper is one of the methods to address this. If klipper handles a square corner parallel to the axes at square_corner_velocity, hereafter k, and marlin handles the same with a jerk in x followed instantly by a the same jerk in y, then k is the vector sum of the two perpendicular jerks ESP32 is a series of low cost, low power system on a chip microcontrollers with integrated Wi-Fi and dual-mode Bluetooth. The layers at the top and bottom of the “x” and “y” are bulged out. 1 mm from the surface. it is simple. Old Printer? Cheap Printer? New Printer? Bad Prints? Great Prints? Klipper can help you and your machine produce beautiful prints at a fraction of Posted by u/UrKillnMe - 6 votes and 10 comments Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Or check it out in the app stores all lines are bulging at the same point and all corners are bulging outwards, tried to take a good picture, k factor from 0 to 1, with k factor Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now I was playing with speeds to fix my issue with the corners of my prints bulging, and damn i guess an ender 3 can print really fast with good results :D every motor has been replaced with a bigger one, belts replaced, fans are 4020/dual 5015's, running klipper, BTT E3V3 mobo Anyway,I edited the OP to show a test result. and there would have been helpful something like: try for the ender-3 pro with bowden Corners are not bulging out as much. Here are some of the basic settings that I have, but if something sounds wrong, if there are more settings you want to know, or any suggestions for some changes, any help would be amazingly What you are trying to do is very much attainable (100mm/s with sharp corners). Have a look in the Klipper documentation. 003 to 0. my subreddits. Klipper can indeed run on a pi zero 2w and allows you to start, stop and transfer gcodes remotely. org Members Online. 5 was the best SCV value at which I could get an acceptable quality. Here is what i mean: first layer The wobble in extrusion creates ringing like artifacts on the exterior of the print. Wonder why marlin pid is so bad. In the Klipper docs they make PA seem like it's just to remove blobs/zits, by coasting (under extruding) before sharp corners, but it looks like it does You may want to reprint to double-check and confirm accuracy, but for myself I would say, I just try to get a pretty good approximate value and then tweak while I run my next few real prints. Klipper to the rescue. It makes it move around the corners faster, giving the plastic less time to ooze there. When i did linear advance, i could get crisp corners but the topmost layer in XYZ calibration cube looked bad with those rough ridges created by the movement of nozzle, which indicated to me that standard rotation distance given in klipper file was letting my extruder over extrude a bit so i just tuned rotation distance and now it looks quite nice. Could also be the model flexing during printing which would also screw up top surface. Finally starting to lock in my prints, on last issue Cr10 Converted to 24 v 750w silicon heatbed Skr1. Running at these speeds requires your belts and wheels to be nice and tight, or you’ll get a lot of ringing. But don’t remember what setting i need to adjust again. Will se what the support says. Seems that linear advance with klipper is the only solution. Or check it out in the app stores   I found that klipper PID is much more precise than marlin's, klipper pid looks like mpc Pic. upvotes Crank up print speed and acceleration in your slicer. org, added the 2 commands into the console, and I'm not seeing any variance in the corners. on the other hand: pressure advance ( the klipper equivalent of linear advance ) works without any problem on that board. I have also seen evidence that linear advance isn't supported on the 4. I spent hours and different settings trying to fix it. Ender 3 - issues with Pressure Advance The large cube was printed in the same amount of time as the small one that has those annoying bulging corners. Looking at the walls and those bulging corners I’d say you’re over-extruding. 5, which is an obvious overkill, the corners still bulge like crazy. Look into tuning, there are more things happening here than just bulging corners. 1mm Printer: Modix Big 60 3d Fuel PLA 200C/60C 100mm/s for all speed settings in Cura 5. Anything about 3d printing and 3d printers Switching to Klipper while your printer has physical problems isn't going to fix anything -- you need to get your other problems solved first. Klipper firmware is amazing. I think it’s acceleration and jerk, but I don’t remember. Normally the extruder decelerates at the same rate as the printhead, but at corners it takes a small amount of time for the residual pressure to drop, and the continued extrusion becomes noticeable. Put the light over top and we are almost 100% uniform! Also got the X to not protrude by switching to klipper (left 2 are Marlin). My Marlin settings were, My problem is basically an exact copy of the behaviour detailed in this issue: #1260 (comment) and I've found that using the listed "solution" here: #1260 (comment) seems to provide better cornering but there are still bulges, albeit  I've got a weird level where the middle of the bed is higher and lower in some places than the corners, I did an axis twist Why are my corners bulging upwards at higher speeds? Ive recently moved over to orca slicer instead of creality print. I was experiencing bulging corners on my prints. I get the same bulging corners that I would get before I started using Klipper, and when watching the extruder, it's clear it's not retracting on the perimeter. This seems to happen with every hard corner that aligns with the Z axis. You can probably do around 80-100mm/s on a stock Ender 3 with 3000mm/s2 acceleration. p. Check Klipper out on discord, discourse, or Klipper3d. 75mm at 20mm/s Print Speed: 60mm/s Temps: 210°C/60°C should sharpen up the corners too. Even without input shaping and pressure advance it should give you a fitting part. Having issues with uneven layers. Fixes it only on the right hand side of each face, letters better but not fixed fully, and notably not fixed on the edge of the Y face again. If I start to see too many bulging corners, I'll up the You can print without it but you will see bulging corners and other issues plus your retractions will be larger. There is just too much momentum to slow down the extrusion rate. Why are my corners bulging upwards at higher speeds? Ive recently moved over to orca slicer instead of creality print. Big fan of Ellis' guide, but the PA pattern test just doesn't do it for me. Anoyone know what causes this? At first I thought the bulging corners were caused by overextrusion. On creality print i printed the same model with the same speed, accels, flow, temps, layer height, layer width, z-offset, and everything else i can think of, and im getting beautiful no, as i said, it's not like i have a corner different from the others. being unfamiliar with it at first there is a bit of a learning curve, but NERO 3D has some brilliant videos as well as Teaching Tech, so I'd recommend I was never able to not have bulging corners on my stock Ender 3. Or check it out in the app stores New Klipper install bottom layers bulge. 6 nozzle probably a factor). 0 set my extrusion multiplier to be as close as 0. It's because they slow down near the corners but the extruder doesn't compensate, so filament tends to bunch up and create these bulges. I thought my acceleration and print speed were the culprit but my recent testing has proven otherwise. The community of r/FixMyPrint will help you fix your 3D printer settings for the most optimal prints. Maybe your hardware just can't manage what's being asked of it, or maybe you have not got the config right. 3, Trying to follow the guide on klipper. This is not an official Klipper support channel and poorly moderated so ymmv. org /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. If your really have to have linear advance I would go with Klipper and use their pressure advance. The fix for that is coasting at the end of a line. 005 for pla abs and petg. Before using Klipper I had bulging corners and obvious ringing on prints. Why are my corners bulging upwards at higher speeds? Ive recently moved over to orca slicer instead jump to content. The bulging corners is a pressure advance issue. and to elaborate: your printer will slow down on corners, so it doesn't overshoot/create too many vibrations. Orca Slicer has a PA test on the menu. 3 Klipper 2208 in uart stealth disabled on extruder Octoprint E3dv6 hot end 0. The KE is a high speed printer. After studying and testing, we found the nozzle needs some time to reach a certain pressure level after accepting the force from the extruder before the molten filament can flow out of the nozzle constantly. Sort by: Best. I already adjusted pressure advance smooth time, square corner velocity and many other Check the corner quality on your prints and decide on your compromise between the best corners and the speed of print. 2 board with TMC2208 drivers so I cant run linear advance and I needed to figure something else out. Reddit iOS Reddit Android Reddit Premium About Reddit Advertise Blog Careers Press. I use cura, but I decided to download and try prusa slicer, and I found that the bulging corners were slightly better, but the only reason I can find is because it slowed down the first few layers a good deal more then I did with cura. Kinda bulged out and rounded. Bulging corners 3. Sounds like thats our for now, just got the printer and want to give it some time before i start doing brain surgery, though trying out Klipper is on the distant to-do list. 063 is what I got. That's all fine so long as you print fairly slow, but as soon as you speed up you have to deal with pressure spikes in the extruder. effectively turning it off. It's my understanding that coasting only applies at points where there would be a retraction, e. If the dimencions are way off, there is something else wrong. and to get these 2 features running just follow I am having issues with my Kobra Plus printing bulging corners and I am having a hard time understanding Cura's settings to fix this based off what I read. View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. Your corners are slightly bulging which will change the measurements by a few tenths. The bottom of the stack of test prints was printed with 40mm/s perimeters and roughly 20mm/s external One issue I am trying to address is overshoot on the corners. You can try slowing down your outer wall speed, or by tweaking your "jerk" settings to change how the printer behaves around corners. A better test would be one of the voron or annex cubes which have tolerance for a bearing or prints meant to fit together for tolerance. I understand that it'll slow down the flow around corners so you don't get to much extrusion because your overlapping your extrusion when turning Klipper running on V2 with a Sprite Pro, sliced in Cura. The gaps in your top surface and wall connections I think are due to an infill issue, not enough top layers, or both. The setting which affects the bulging corners is Pressure Advance. Teaching Tech and Ellis3DP are two good sites for getting firmware and slicer settings dialed in well. Hello, on my Creality Ender 3 V3 KE, I am getting bulging at sharp corners even after calibrating pressure advance. Think i remember seeing a Klipper setting for pressure advance, doing a bit of reading it sounds like about the same thing as Marlins linear advance. Measured 3x and averaged Skip to main content. however, my main question would have been to you - because i could already see here that you have a plan of klipper - which value range you would consider reasonable to try out with the ender-3 pro. You know how is you print a square the corners will have a little roundness to them almost like a small circle was put on the corner. g. How to proceed? More details on the printer: Prusa Slicer does a bit better job (despite having higher speeds, accelerations, etc) but I still can't get these to go away. more info in comments Over the past 4 days I've been playing with the print settings but the best I've gotten is barely noticeable corner bulge at an hour print time. Pictures of my symptoms are here: Reddit's OG off-piste sub for all things backcountry skiing/splitboarding. Significantly faster than the default 60mm/s at 500mm/s/s that it . The bulging corners are caused by residual pressure in the system when the printhead decelerates for the corner. It's the guts of an old Cubex Trio with Klipper running on a Raspberry Pi 3B and a couple of Blue Pill (stm32) boards I cobbled together. It also reduces needed retractions and greatly reduces stringing. 2 board However, when I printed the test gcode from marlin, the different k Everything came out amazingly good, but i did notice that any exterior corners almost looked overextruded, like the photo shows. Your calibration cubes aren't square -- there's definitely some skew in your gantry, and judging by the fact it's visible, it's a LOT of skew (more than Klipper's skew correction can likely compensate for). Read more about that here /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. With correctly tuned PA your prints will be significantly nicer and your retractions will be much lower, in both distance and speed. I've been trying to find a sweet spot between no ringing and and sharp corners (accel/jerk vs speed). The cube shown was printed using the default settings /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. I have the 4. cksib opcjgto mrktuc sblx nvx yxf kwv tagjfl zfnp vepd